We walked through the pedestrian-only neighborhood with cobbled streets and small, interesting shops, opened the door, climbed the marble steps, and walked into ... Architectural Digest! Truly one of the most beautiful -- and interesting -- spaces I've ever experienced. Everything worked well, excellent Internet connection, excellent TV package, great blinds, great linens, comfort and pleasure galore. Vangelis and Kostos were perfect hosts, attentive and generous but not intrusive. Most of all we relished the architecture, a fascinating lesson on how to articulate and unify a design of many levels with a subdued but warm color scheme, varied textures, and some witty touches. We could live there forever. Restaurant recommendation: To Maridaki, right around the corner at 33, Daskalogianni Str., Splantzia. Have the fish soup, you'll be happy.